A wire is screwed into the suppressor that disappears into the firewall this is the famous “P” Lead.(Connect the green and red alligator clips to the screw that attaches the P lead to the noise suppressor). Connect the timing light by putting the green lead on the left mag, and the red lead on the right mag, you will note a thick braided wire exiting the bottom of the backplate of the mag, this goes to the noise suppressor, also attached to the mag.
On all engines there is also a mark on the prop flange showing 28°, 32° and TDC. On a 220 you can see the piston travel and verify the position by looking in the sparkplug hole. There is a special tool to find TDC that you really don’t need. (Place your finger over the spark plug hole and rotate until you feel pressure build to maximum). You will hear the impulse couplings go off as you approach this position (If you do this, read Installing Mags below) Remove the top plugs, rotate the engine in the normal direction until you have TDC on #1 cylinder. If your mags are stuck tight, you will have to pry/tap them loose and replace the gaskets well coated with Never Seize. Loosen the mag retaining nuts just enough to be able to advance or retard the timing by moving the mags in the slotted flange. (If you have not split the nose bowl you may want to think about is, unless you are a purist or Luddite, splitting the bowl makes access especially easy. Removethe upper cowl, and if you have split your nose bowl, remove the top half as well. Mag timing light borrow one or better yet take the plunge and spend $42.95 for the Action Air Parts Inc., Inductor Dual Mag Synchronizer (P/N 12-16901 from Spruce), since you should check the timing each annual it will quickly pay for itself.
1/2’ socket or suitable to loosen the nuts holding the mag in placeĨ.
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